Bead in the form of a shell, Egypt, 2040-1648 BCE (Cleveland Museum of Art) 

Wearing jewelry makes us human. The practice of adornment reflects our desire to understand and honor the beauty of the natural world around us. Adornment may also express a wish to distinguish ourselves—not only from other animals, but from one another. Part of the power of jewelry lies in this dual role: it carries the unique story of the person who wears it while connecting us all through a shared human tradition.

Before humans worked in metal, jewelry was made from simple organic materials. Shells, seeds, flowers, and berries, along with fossils, bones, and teeth, were strung together with twine or sinew. The universal appeal of beads made from—or shaped to resemble—elements found in nature spans cultures and millennia.

The oldest piece of jewelry ever found is a necklace of mollusc shells that show evidence of having been strung together by humans some 75,000 years ago. These shells were carefully selected for their size, transported over long distances, and even embellished with red ochre. Archaeologists have discovered even earlier pierced shells dating from approximately 142,000–150,000 years ago that were likely used in jewelry. These early ornaments may represent some of the first evidence of symbolic and artistic expression among early humans. For the first time, objects—particularly jewelry—began to communicate meaning.

Shell beads from Cro-Magnon, France, 30,000 years old (Smithsonian Museum)

What makes jewelry symbolic? Like all art, its meaning is shaped by context. Jewelry is worn not only for beauty but also for its ability to carry meaning—to evoke memory, express identity, communicate affiliation, or commemorate a place, event, or person. In this way, adornment can be understood as one of the earliest and most enduring forms of human communication.

Shell necklace, Egypt, 3850-2960 BCE (Museum of Fine Arts Boston)

Over time, jewelry began to incorporate rarer and more unusual materials. Its value was increasingly derived not only from beauty, but also from the uniqueness of its components. Metals—especially gold—became important, along with stones and materials found only in certain regions or obtained through long-distance trade. Cowrie shells, obsidian, lapis lazuli, and amber were highly prized. In antiquity, amber was so rare that it was sometimes traded at a higher price than gold.

Cowrie Shell Girdle of Sithathoryunet, Middle Kingdom, Egypt, ca. 1887–1813 BCE (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

Jewelry can reveal much about the individuals who wore it and the cultures and societies in which they lived. Jewelry may signal wealth or status, but it can also reflect belief, tradition, social ties, and personal identity. Although jewelry is often valued for its beauty, it can also be understood as a powerful object charged with meaning.

Continuing the Tradition
The earliest jewelry made by humans drew directly from the natural world, and this connection to nature continues to guide my work today.

Cylichna Earrings
Handmade 22k gold earrings echoing small shell forms inspired by ancient Cypriot jewelry.

Amphora Pearl Pendants
South Sea pearl pendants with a 20k gold bail recalling the shape of ancient amphora vessels.