Wedjat Eye Amulet, Ptolemaic Period, 332–30 BCE, Egypt (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

In the ancient world, jewelry was imbued with power. Ancient jewelry was often worn as an amulet, protecting the wearer against evil, illness, and misfortune. Amulets were worn by men, women, and children at every stage of life and in every social class. They were considered especially important during periods of transition—in early childhood, during coming of age, marriage, travel, pregnancy and childbirth, and in the afterlife, among other rites of passage. Amulets were believed to not only prevent harm but also provide strength. Across centuries and civilizations, many amulets found in ancient jewelry allude to the themes of renewal, rebirth, and regeneration, providing tangible form to a very human emotion: hope.

Amulet in the form of the hieroglyph sa (meaning "protection"), Middle Kingdom, ca. 2051–1981 BCE, Egypt (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

Ancient amulets were made in a wide range of shapes and colors, and could be worn as necklaces, rings, bracelets, or anklets. Their designs most commonly evoke the symbols, animals, or figures associated with the gods, and they were often made from the most exotic and valuable stones and materials. First and foremost among these was gold, believed to be made from the flesh of the gods and to symbolize eternal life. In addition, various hardstones and gemstones carried special significance, providing protection or conferring special powers on the wearer.

Bead necklaces with gold amulets, Middle Kingdom, 2000-1600 BCE, Egypt (Walters Art Museum)

Some of the earliest amulets are from ancient Mesopotamia, including amulets to protect against the demon Lamashtu. For protection, women and children would wear rectangular amulets with rounded corners that display a carving of the demon on one side and an incantation against her inscribed in cuneiform on the other.

Neo-Assyrian Lamashtu amulet, c. 8th-7th Century BCE (Christie’s)

However, without such written evidence, it is often difficult for archaeologists to tell if an object was used as an amulet. In fact, it is most likely that ancient jewelry carried multiple meanings and purposes that were simultaneously decorative, social, religious, and amuletic. 

Gold amulet pendant with central evil eye image surrounded by attacking animals, Roman, ca. 2nd century CE (John Hopkins University Archaeological Museum)

In ancient Egypt, most everyone wore jewelry—in daily life and into the afterlife—and most Egyptian jewelry carried a spiritual and magical meaning. Perhaps the most well-known is the scarab, a powerful amulet supporting regeneration and rebirth. Scarab beetles push a ball of dung across the earth, reminding ancient Egyptians of the sun god’s passage across the sky and the eternal rebirth of every day with each dawn.

Ring with uninscribed scarab, Middle Kingdom, ca. 1850–1640 BCE, Egypt (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

Ancient amulets such as the scarab were worn close to the skin, in necklaces and rings, to transfer its power and protection directly to the wearer. Scarabs were often engraved on the underside with hieroglyphics and usually swiveled so each side could be hidden or revealed. These engravings conveyed powerful or magical names, spells and incantations, and symbols of deities. Small figures of the god (or the animals that represented them) could place the wearer under their direct protection. The engraving on the ring below depicts the hieroglyph ankh meaning “life,” protected by the outstretched wings of a falcon, the sacred animal of the god Horus.

Cowroid set in a ring bezel, New Kingdom, ca. 1492–1473 BCE, Egypt (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

In Greek and Roman times, the form of the ancient Egyptian scarab developed into a more abstract scaraboid or cowroid shape, which were smooth stones with an engraved flat side and a domed side similar to a cabochon. Over thousands of years of ancient history, the swiveled scarab ring eventually evolved into seal rings and what we know today as a signet ring.

Steatite scaraboid seal set in a gold swivel ring, Greek, ca. late 6th–early 5th century BCE (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

The ancients recognized the extraordinary and magical power of rings, which over time evolved into political and financial power, as seal rings and signet rings were used as an emblem of power. During the Hellenistic period, these types of rings were made with the traditional hardstones, such as agate, carnelian, chalcedony, and rock crystal, as well as precious stones, which were often carved. Alexander the Great’s own signet ring, now lost to history, was an emerald carved with his portrait.

Gold ring set with an emerald, Greek, ca. 330–300 BCE (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

Gold and beryl ring, Roman, Cypriot, late 1st century BCE-early 1st century CE (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

In addition to amulets like scarabs that invoked the powers of the gods and provided the hope of a long, healthy, and successful life, other amulets were worn to prevent misfortune. The concept of the evil eye—a malevolent gaze that is believed to bring illness, bad luck, and harm—is one that crosses cultures and millennia. Its origin can be traced to ancient Mesopotamia, with counterparts in ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome. For example, archaeologists have suggested that the cowrie shell may have been used in ancient Egypt as an amulet to avert the evil eye, especially during pregnancy. Certainly the Eye of Horus, another Egyptian symbol, was believed to have protective properties and provide the power of regeneration. Its origin is closely connected to the myth of Osiris and the eternal battle between good and evil.

Wedjat eye with granulation and decorative wire ornament, Ptolemaic Period, 332–30 BCE, Egypt (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

In ancient Greece and Rome, a common jewelry design took the form of snakes that wrapped around the body either as rings or bracelets. Snakes were closely associated with healing and the process of rebirth and renewal, as well as the ancient Greek god of medicine, Asclepius, and are still used as symbols of the medical profession today.

Ancient Greek jewelry also features symbols of abundance that reminded wearers of the powers of the gods, including Dionysus through ivy vines, grape clusters, wine jugs called amphora. Another example from Roman times was a small crescent symbol called the lunula (“little moon” in Latin), which was worn as an amulet pendant to provide protection to women and girls.

Beads and gold amulets including a cowrie, the Eye of Horus, and amphorae, Cyrpus, early 5th century BCE (Antikensammlung)

Jewelry makes us feel powerful. Ancient jewelry was believed to not only provide protection but also strength. Through shapes, symbols, and stones, both ancient jewelry evokes the beauty and the power of the natural and spiritual worlds—and reminds us of the hopes and fears we all share.