Wedjat Eye Amulet, Ptolemaic Period, 332–30 BCE, Egypt (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

In the ancient world, jewelry was believed to hold power. Many ornaments were worn as protective amulets, believed to guard the wearer against evil, illness, and misfortune. These objects were worn by men, women, and children across all levels of society. They were considered especially important during moments of transition—early childhood, coming of age, marriage, travel, pregnancy and childbirth, and in preparation for the afterlife. Amulets were believed to not only prevent harm but also provide strength and reassurance. Across centuries and civilizations, many ancient amulets evoke themes of renewal, rebirth, and regeneration, giving tangible form to a very human emotion: hope.

Amulet in the form of the hieroglyph sa (meaning "protection"), Middle Kingdom, ca. 2051–1981 BCE, Egypt (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

Ancient amulets were made in a wide variety of shapes and colors and could be worn as necklaces, rings, bracelets, or anklets. Their designs often depicted symbols, animals, or figures associated with the gods, and they were frequently crafted from rare or valuable materials. Gold was especially significant, believed to be the flesh of the gods and a symbol of eternal life. Gemstones also carried symbolic meaning and were thought to confer specific protective powers.

Bead necklaces with gold amulets, Middle Kingdom, 2000-1600 BCE, Egypt (Walters Art Museum)

Some of the earliest known protective amulets come from ancient Mesopotamia, including amulets intended to guard against the demon Lamashtu. Women and children wore rectangular plaques with rounded corners (similar to ancient stele) that displayed an image of the demon on one side and an incantation against her inscribed in cuneiform on the other.

Neo-Assyrian Lamashtu amulet, c. 8th-7th Century BCE (Christie’s)

Without such written inscriptions, however, it is often difficult for archaeologists to determine whether a particular object was intended as an amulet. Many pieces of ancient jewelry likely served multiple roles simultaneously—decorative, social, religious, and protective.

Gold amulet pendant with central evil eye image surrounded by attacking animals, Roman, ca. 2nd century CE (John Hopkins University Archaeological Museum)

In ancient Egypt, nearly everyone wore jewelry both in life and in the afterlife, and much of it carried spiritual or magical meaning. One of the most recognizable protective amulets is the scarab. Scarab beetles roll a ball of dung across the earth, which reminded ancient Egyptians of the sun god’s journey across the sky and the daily rebirth of the sun at dawn.

Ring with uninscribed scarab, Middle Kingdom, ca. 1850–1640 BCE, Egypt (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

Scarabs and other amulets were often worn close to the skin in rings and necklaces so their protective power could be transferred directly to the wearer. The underside of the scarab was typically engraved with hieroglyphs or symbolic images and mounted in a swivel setting so that each side could be revealed or concealed. These inscriptions might include names, spells, protective symbols, or invocations of deities. The engraving on the ring below depicts the hieroglyph ankh, meaning “life,” protected by the outstretched wings of a falcon, the sacred animal of the god Horus.

Cowroid set in a ring bezel, New Kingdom, ca. 1492–1473 BCE, Egypt (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

Over time, the form of the Egyptian scarab evolved into a more abstract scaraboid or cowroid shape in Greek and Roman jewelry. These were smooth stones with a domed top and a flat engraved underside. Over thousands of years, this tradition of engraved rings eventually developed into seal rings and the signet rings still familiar today.

Steatite scaraboid seal set in a gold swivel ring, Greek, ca. late 6th–early 5th century BCE (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

The symbolic power of rings gradually took on political and economic meaning as well. Seal rings and signet rings were used to mark documents and authenticate authority. During the Hellenistic period these rings were often carved from hardstones such as agate, carnelian, chalcedony, and rock crystal, as well as precious stones. Alexander the Great’s own signet ring—now lost to history—was said to be an emerald carved with his portrait.

Gold ring set with an emerald, Greek, ca. 330–300 BCE (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

Gold and beryl ring, Roman, Cypriot, late 1st century BCE-early 1st century CE (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

Many ancient amulets invoked divine protection, but others were intended to defend the wearer from specific dangers. One enduring example is the belief in the evil eye—a malevolent gaze thought to bring illness, bad luck, or harm. This belief appears across many ancient cultures, including Mesopotamia, Egypt, Greece, and Rome. Archaeologists have suggested that cowrie shells may have been worn in ancient Egypt to avert the evil eye, particularly during pregnancy. The Eye of Horus was widely worn as a protective amulet, believed to provide both healing and regeneration.

Wedjat eye with granulation and decorative wire ornament, Ptolemaic Period, 332–30 BCE, Egypt (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

In ancient Greece and Rome, snake-shaped jewelry was also associated with protection and renewal. Rings and bracelets often took the form of coiled serpents. Snakes were closely linked to healing and rebirth and were associated with the Greek god of medicine, Asclepius—a symbol still used by the medical profession today.

In addition to protective symbols, ancient jewelry also celebrated regeneration, abundance, and the cycles of nature. Greek and Roman ornaments often incorporated symbols associated with Dionysus, such as ivy vines, grape clusters, and wine vessels called amphorae. Another protective symbol from Roman times was the lunula—“little moon” in Latin—a small crescent pendant worn by women and girls as an amulet.

Beads and gold amulets including a cowrie, the Eye of Horus, and amphorae, Cyrpus, early 5th century BCE (Antikensammlung)

Jewelry has always carried meaning beyond decoration. In the ancient world it was believed to offer protection, strength, and connection to the divine. Through its symbols and materials, ancient jewelry gave visible form to the hopes and fears of the people who wore it—offering protection, reassurance, and a continuity of traditions across generations.

Continuing the Tradition
Protective symbols have appeared in jewelry for thousands of years. Several pieces in my collection draw on the ancient tradition of protection through adornment.

Satnal Ring

Ruby ring handmade in 22k gold, named after the Etruscan word satnal, meaning guardian.

Lunula Necklace

Crescent pendant in 22k gold inspired by Roman protective amulets worn by women and girls.

Thyra Ring

Aquamarine ring in 22k gold with an open-backed setting rooted in ancient gemstone traditions.