Fragment from the Frieze of the Cupids showing cupids working as goldsmiths, House of the Vettii, Pompeii, 1st century CE

The eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 CE preserved a remarkable archaeological view into Roman life. Among the objects recovered from Pompeii, Herculaneum, and the surrounding villas is an extraordinary collection of gold jewelry—chains, rings, bracelets, and amulets—worn by people across Roman society. Unlike most ancient jewelry, which often survives without clear archaeological context, these pieces were found exactly where their owners left them.

Ancient Romans of all classes—men and women—owned jewelry. Yet much of the ancient jewelry that survives today was discovered in poorly documented excavations during the early years of archaeology, or looted by treasure hunters and grave robbers and later sold on the antiquities market. As a result, many pieces are separated from the archaeological context that could tell us where they were made, who may have owned them, and how they were worn.

View of the excavations at Pompeii in May 1873

A rare exception is the Roman jewelry found at Pompeii, Herculaneum, and the surrounding villas buried in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 CE. A wide range of gold and silver necklaces, rings, bracelets, and earrings were recovered, often set with precious and semi-precious stones such as pearls, emeralds, and carnelian. Jewelry was discovered on skeletons, in cloth bags, and inside wooden boxes that had been carried during the evacuation or left behind in houses.

Jewelry discovered in a bag carried by a woman who perished in the town of Oplontis near Pompeii, 79 CE (Soprintendenza Speciale per i Beni Archeologici di Napoli e Pompei)

Given the chaos of the eruption and the desperate attempts to escape, it is often impossible to determine precisely which jewelry belonged to which person. This makes it difficult to draw firm conclusions about the wealth, status, or identity of the people who wore these pieces.

Lump of coins with jewels enclosed – jasper, bronze, gold, pearls, emerald, Roman, Herculaneum, 1st century CE

Even so, the volcanic eruption preserved a unique snapshot of the types of jewelry Romans owned and wore in the first century CE. The number of examples preserved allows us to identify several styles that appear to have been particularly common.

Several gold woven loop-in-loop chains were found, some long enough to be worn as body chains around the torso. Multiple necklaces made in the figure-of-eight chain style were also excavated, typically worn at choker length. These were often paired with crescent-shaped lunula pendants, protective amulets often worn by Roman girls and young women, as well as clasps in the form of wheels or discs. 

Gold catena loop-in-loop chain, Roman, Pompeii, 1st century CE (Parco Archeologico di Pompei)

Gold necklace with crescent (lunula) pendant, Oplontis B, 79 CE (Regents of the University of Michigan)

Another common style is a bracelet composed of hemispherical half-domes joined by chain links. Several examples were discovered in Pompeii—some made of solid gold, others gilded with gold leaf.

Gold bracelets in the form of inter-linking double hemispheres, Roman, Pompeii, 1st century CE (Parco Archeologico di Pompei)

Multiple gold serpent bracelets were also found. Some are molded from solid gold, others hollow, and still others formed from thin sheet gold. Archaeologists have suggested that the solid gold examples may have functioned partly as a repository of wealth—gold jewelry that was not only worn but also stored value. This practice continued from the Greek Hellenistic tradition and likely from even earlier periods.

Gold snake bracelets, Roman, Herculaneum, 1st century CE (Museo Archeologico Virtuale di Ercolano)

Why did some Roman women own solid gold jewelry while others had hollow or gilded versions? The difference may reflect variations in wealth and access to precious materials. But it is equally possible that a single woman owned both types—one for daily wear and another kept as an heirloom, part of a dowry, or a form of portable wealth.

These examples illustrate how difficult it can be to reconstruct the lives of ordinary people from ancient jewelry, even when its archaeological provenance is known. Jewelry in the Roman world served many purposes: adornment, protective amulet, status symbol, heirloom, and investment. Even today, a single piece of jewelry can carry multiple meanings depending on who wears it and in what context.

Continuing the Tradition
The jewelry found with those who fled the eruption of Mount Vesuvius is both evocative and deeply human. These pieces remind us that jewelry has always carried personal meaning, an idea that continues to shape my work today.

Ancilia Chain
Handmade 20k gold chain inspired by Roman figure-of-eight styles.

Lunula Necklace
Handcrafted crescent pendant in 22k gold based on Roman protective amulets.